Welcome to Canyon Country
Story & photos by James and Dorothy Richardson
There may be no other region in the West that has a higher concentration of beautiful national parks and awesome gorges than northern Arizona and southern Utah. Cooler weather and fewer visitors make for an ideal visit in winter or spring.
It takes a drive of just a few hundred miles or so near the borders of two states to treat oneself to some of the most jaw-dropping scenery in the West, if not the entire country. And by making the trip in the next few months, you’ll avoid huge crowds at other times of the year.
Your trip could start in Arizona, with its Grand Canyon and Vermillion Cliffs National Monument. Neighboring Utah is home to Bryce and Zion national parks. Not terribly far from these treasures are such Arizona attractions as the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest, east of Flagstaff; the slot canyons of Antelope Valley and Monument Valley, east of Page; and Lake Powell, north of Page.
Grand Sight to See
For visitors traveling from the southwest through Flagstaff, the Grand Canyon (pictured on page 6) would be the logical first stop and likely the most anticipated since many people compare all national parks to the Grand Canyon. And for good reason.
The Grand Canyon is, pardon the expression, the granddaddy of them all. The vistas are out of this world. The South Rim, the more visited of the two, is open all year. The North Rim is closed during the winter due to its 1,000-foot-higher altitude. At the canyon’s floor, the Colorado River flows 1,450 miles from Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado to the Gulf of California. The canyon is 18 miles at its widest point and one-mile deep. The North Rim is 10 miles from the South Rim, as the crow flies. It’s 215 miles over the road.
Upon entering the park at the South Rim, the first opportunity to see the canyon is at Mather Point (elevation: 7,120 feet). Use a free shuttle that chauffeurs people from the visitor center through the park to avoid getting stuck in traffic and hunting for a parking space.
Numerous activities are available in the park. Many trails and mule rides and helicopter rides into the canyon are popular. But most of the visitors just enjoy the view from atop the gorge. The South Rim has more activities and more opportunities for viewing, but the North Rim is more isolated, a vantage point many visitors cherish.
The most practical route between the south and north rims is scenic State Highway 64 to U.S. 89 through Page. At the intersection of 89 and U.S. 160, near Tuba City, there is an option to visit Monument Valley, an inspirational collection of natural rock formations that has served as an iconic background in many Western movies. The entrance to the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park is in Goulding, Utah. The $5-per-person entry fee includes a rough 17-mile auto tour–not recommended for RVs, trailers or motor homes but worth it for smaller vehicles. A shortcut via State Route 98 from Monument Valley to Page saves about 50 miles but also misses some the beautiful scenery around Marble Canyon.
Page, a city with many amenities, is located adjacent to Lake Powell and Glen Canyon. Stop by the Glen Canyon Dam and Clark Hayden Visitor Center for dam information. Just east of Page (along SR 98 from Monument Valley) are the slot canyons of Antelope Valley, a popular stop. Guided 90-minute tours are available for $25 per person. Parking costs $6.
Bryce Is Breathtaking
Travel westward from Page, along U.S. 89, to reach Kanab, Utah, which would be a good stopover and a reasonable base to visit Bryce Canyon and Zion national parks. Locals refer to Kanab as “Little Hollywood” because of its history as a filming location for Western movies and television series.
To get to Bryce Canyon National Park from Kanab, take U.S. 89 north for about 60 miles to SR 12. Follow the signs to the Bryce Canyon entrance.
Every national park has its unique features and Bryce Canyon has its hoodoos–tall, thin spires consisting of sedimentary rock topped by harder stone. Bryce Canyon has an 18-mile driving route that runs in a north-south direction. The park brochure recommends going to southernmost Rainbow Point first and stopping at the overlooks or points of interest on the way back. The suggestion is for safety’s sake since all turnoffs are on the eastern side of the route.
In addition to the spectacular views from the overlooks, there are 50 miles of hiking trails and ranger-led talks on the ecology and geology of the area. Many sites at the campgrounds are on a first-come, first-served basis, but many can be reserved online or by calling
877-444-6777.
Zion: A Hiker’s Dream
To find the eastern entrance to Zion National Park, backtrack to U.S. 89 south to SR 9 near Kanab. Travel along SR 9 (Zion-Mt Carmel Highway) involves passing through a tunnel with a 50-ft.-long vehicle-size limitation. Consult the park website (www.nps.gov/zion) for information about arriving through the eastern entrance. To reach the northern entrance, take Exit 40 from Interstate 15. The northern entrance features a short, scenic five-mile auto route, called Kolob Canyon Road, which begins at the visitor center. There is no route to the southern entrance from here.
There is also an exit on I-15 for SR 9, which leads to the town of Virgin, Utah. This is the southern entrance and the beginning of 20-mile-long Kolob Terrace Road, which winds through the very scenic park. It is not recommended for large vehicles and trailers beyond a certain point. The Watchman Campground is located one-quarter mile from the southern entrance. This is the best alternative for electrical hookups; reservations are recommended.
The majority of park activity takes place through the eastern entrance, which can be accessed from the west. The visitor center, Zion Human History Museum, overlooks and trailheads are located along the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. Travel on this road from April 1 to October 30 is limited to shuttle buses. The shuttles provide access to some of Zion’s most beautiful views and trails. A round-trip ride on the shuttle takes about 80 minutes. Parking is available.
Zion is a hiker’s dream. There are miles and miles of trails, from easy to strenuous. Some of the lower trails are wheelchair accessible and the park’s shuttle system stops at many trailheads.
The road trip might conclude east of Flagstaff, along I-40, at the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest National Park. At the main entrance, an easy 28-mile auto route takes visitors past some of the most colorful land formations in the country and along sites that contain a large amount of petrified wood. There are pullouts and parking areas for short walks to points of interest but no camping facilities at this park.
KEY CONTACTS
National Recreation
Reservation Service
877-444-6777
www.recreation.gov
Grand Canyon National Park
926-638-7888
www.nps.gov/grca
Bryce Canyon National Park
435-834-5322
www.nps.gov/brca
Zion National Park
435-772-3256
www.nps.gov/zion
Petrified Forest National Park
928-524-6228
www.nps.gov/pefo
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